MACHU PICCHU - Machu Picchu is the biggest single reason that people visit Peru. It is an archeological site - probably one of the most intact archeological sites in Peru, of the Incas. It was both holiday site, as well as religious and sacred ceremonial grounds for the Inca leaders. It was hidden away from the Spanish deep into the interior Andes, and was not “re-discovered” until Hiram Bingham - UK scholar “found” it by way of help from a young Peruvian boy about 100 years ago. Personally I find it distasteful to say that he discovered it or even re-discovered the site, when obviously it was known to the peoples of the area. I would rather say that he introduced the world to Machu Picchu. Anyhow, the site itself is nestled between the mountains on a shorter mountain top, with the Urubamba river winding around its base. The site houses agricultural storage, temples, astrological points, housing, etc. 

Many people take the train from either Cusco or Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu to the town of Aguas Callientes at the base of Machu Picchu and then the bus going up, while others take a bus all the way (much cheaper but quite a long journey) and of course then there are the treks - the most famous being the Inca Trek. While trains should be booked at least a month in advance, the treks need about a month and a half’s notice, or in the case of the Inca trek 3-5 month’s notice as they fill up fast. The Inca trek is 4 days long - and it is quite the hike - but fairly luxurious as you only carry your sleeping bag, and clothes and toiletries, and honestly if you want you can pay one of the porters to carry this for you. The porters carry the tents, sleeping pads, food, cookware, etc. They then set up all meal times, set up and pack tents, and so your only job is to walk / hike. Do you need to be physically fit to do the trail - yes - one is hiking at altitudes of up to 4100 meters where breathing can become harder, temperatures drop, and going up up up and down down down on slippery Inca stone stairs is not an easy task. During the rainy season the trek is harder as the stones become even more slippery. And yes people do get injured, pass out, and have even died on this trek - so make sure you’ve trained or are quite physically active. The Inca trek is very interesting as one passes many Inca ruins along the way to Machu Picchu and learns slowly about the histories of what happened and about Inca architecture and building skills. 

Another popular trek is the Salkantay - which is a 5-day trek and goes through some glacial passes - this is also intensive - probably a bit more so than the Inca trek - but rather than seeing Inca ruins along the way, you will view magnificent scenery. How many hours are you hiking per day? - I would say probably between 4-8 hours a day - there are some breaks, but it is good to start when the sun is up and get to camp a bit before sun down as hiking in the dark with no lights on the path can be unnerving. 

Because Machu Picchu is a world wonder and quite spectacular it is to be visited if going to Peru. But then so is Cusco and so are Pisaq and Ollantaytambo. If you have 3 days in the valley, make sure to see both Cusco and Machu Picchu, if you have 5 days - visit also, the Sacred Valley, and if you are lucky enough to have a week or longer - really soak it all in and take your time. 

I mentioned above in the post about a town called Aguas Callientes at the base of Machu Picchu. This is the town that all taking a bus or train or coming back from a trek will stop in. 15 years ago, this town was quite poor and a bit of a dump really. It has now become a cute town nestled in the mountains, and rather like Banff in Alberta, Canada. There are hot springs, lots of cafes and restaurants, hotels and hostels, and the town has become very pretty. Worth a stay. 

On a final note, the porters, these men come from small and often very poor villages dotted all over the Sacred Valley, and to be honest most of them are supporting larger families. They get paid about 50 dollars for 5 days work during which they carry super heavy loads - and really 50 dollars is not a lot when more and more goes less and less far in today’s world - yes even in Peru. The cook and guide are paid much more at 100-150 dollars a trek or more. And of course the agencies are paid very well. Please tip the porters fairly - for them this job is their livelihood, and a chance to escape and help their families escape what is often true poverty, as it is one of the few jobs requiring little education, and where spoken Spanish is not needed - for those coming from purely Quechuan speaking households.

Not quite in the Sacred Valley, but between Urubamba and Cusco lies a small and quaint town as the highest point. This is the town of Chinchero. It is quaint, and does have some smaller archeological ruins further back in the town. The town does also boast a textile market which happens on the weekends but in the mornings - it will be over by 2 pm, with just the few people trying to sell the last of the pile stuff - so be sure to get there early! 

CUSCO - THE ARCHEOLOGICAL CITY - I personally love the city of Cusco - I find the mix of peoples, the vibe which is buzzing, yet calm, and also spiritual is intoxicating. I loved my time living there, and will always return. This city is lively with people rushing about their daily lives, street dances, cultural events, art shows, and many tourists visiting the various historical sites within and surrounding the city.

The reason I call Cusco and archeological living city is because it was originally the main City of the Incan peoples - one of the main cultural and religious groups of the ancient world - like the Egyptians or the Mayans. And so the city retains many of the Incan stone walls, streets, and even building bases. The reason only mainly building bases instead of the entire building remains is because of Spanish and thus Catholic conquest that saw many buildings and temples destroyed - only for those same stones to be used in the building of the city’s cathedrals. The sites of Sacsayhuaman and the Qorikancha are 2 sites where it is very visible to see a lot of the Incan stone work that still exists otherwise. 

Places to stay - Once choice place to stay if you are on a budget is the Pariwana hostel which is 2 blocks of the main plaza, very safe, lively with events at their bar / restaurant almost nightly, and with a great movie room as well as courtyard to hang about in. If you are wanting something more luxurious there are your regular European hotels like Novotel, and then of course, on the high end, are the Peruvian “Casa Andina” chain which is luxury en grande, as well as the 5 star hotel within the Monastery which is top of the line. These places run fairly expensive however, as Cusco is not only just a tourist hub, but a place of research for Anthropologists, Archeologists, Botanists, Agriculturalists, Naturopaths, and so forth. So where as Pariwana hostel is about $15 American a night for a bed, or $50 American a night for a private room with bath, a Casa Andina or Novotel will run $150 - 250 per night and the Monastery hotel is about $750 a night and up.

Some great things to do in Cusco, other than walking / hiking the streets of this archeological living city, are visiting the main Cathedrals, visiting the main plazas in the day and at night, visiting the archeological area of Sacsayhuaman that overlooks the city and was the Incan sacred area for religious rituals and temples, visiting the highly sacred building in the city known as the Qorikancha, and visiting the museums of culture, chocolate, and of coffee. One can also have coffee, breakfast, or lunch on the main plaza, party away in the many night clubs, get a massage, or shop at a massive range of stores carrying everything from tourist trinkets to gorgeous alpaca sweaters to beautiful jewelry. 

For those interested in the adrenaline rush - one can book bike tours, rafting adventures, camping, trekking to glaciers, and more within the Valley. For those interested in cultural events - pick up a dance class or cooking class or join in a football / soccer match. There really is something for everyone. 

Some great times to be in Cusco include the Sun and solstice festivals of June, Easter time, and Christmas time. Because almost the whole country is Catholic - they really celebrate their events. That said, for many others their Incan traditions and culture are just as if not far more important, and there are many of the Incan festival and events that take place through the year - including as mentioned above the festivals of the sun and solstice and all the month of June. 

If you are in Cusco for longer, make sure to check out some of the markets not just for shopping, but for the amazing food - the market of San Jeronimo is quite the overwhelming market - but so incredible at the same time - teeming with loads of fruits and vegetables freshly trucked in, with women bringing cacao and coffee straight from the jungle, and animal carcasses everywhere in the meat district within the market. Oh, they also repair shoes in 10-20 minutes within this market. 

Good street foods include - Anticuchos, Empanadas, and Cut fruits 

​For more on visiting cafes and restaurants in Cusco, check out this previous blog post 

Prices

• Taxis - 3-15 soles 
• Taxi to the airport - 12-15 soles 
• Bus rides in the city - 70 centimos - 1 sol - to Sacsaywoman is 3 soles in taxi - 15 soles 
• Average hostel 25-50 soles per night (shared bed - 6-10 to a room)
• Private room ($40 - $50 American / night)
• Good Hotel ($150-200 American / night)
• 5 star hotel ($350 - 1000 American / night) 
• Street food 1-5 soles 
• Decent cheaper meal - 5-15 soles 
• Good meal with drink - 20-40 soles 
• Excellent meal at a great restaurant with drink - 50-100 soles 
• Meal at top restaurant in Cusco - 200 - 250 soles per person with drinks. 
• Museums - 5-30 soles or better yet get the 10 day Sacred Valley pass or Cusco city pass for 120 - 150 soles - Well Worth it 
• Cinema - at the mall - 10-15 soles 

PISAQ - A town at one end of the Sacred Valley following the Vilcanota River - it has become quite the tourist hub with a more of a hippy feel - many cafe restaurants and pizza joints, spas, and nice hostels - but book early these hostels fill up fast. Pisaq boasts incredible ruins - enter for 70 soles - or Get the Sacred Valley pass for around 160 soles - good for 7 - 10 days - well worth it. The ruins found here are some of my favourites - make sure to take a tour guide so that they can explain about the Incan's system of education, their understanding of astrology, and also their burial rites. Pisaq also has one of the best artisan craft markets in Peru - best to go in the mornings - traditional market day for Pisaq is Wednesday. Also if you've got some time and are in need of a good coffee or hot chocolate, on the main market square in the lower SW corner, if facing the ruins, sits a lovely cafe with some of the best hot chocolate I've had the pleasure of enjoying, world wide. It's called The Blue Llama. 

CALCA - Further down the Valley one comes to the town of Calca - Calca is a cute town but not too known for ruins or anything. However, if you are looking to go off the beaten path and you have time - take the painful (but with amazing views) 10 sol 2 hour bumpy bus ride into the interior from Calca to Lares - and visit the hot springs there taking in the beautiful surroundings deep in the Andes. 

What is the Sacred Valley? Its a stretch of land - a valley stretching from the south Peruvian jungle to Machu Picchu. It is considered sacred because the Incan peoples built many of their cities and strongholds along this valley, and also the river Ollantaytambo runs its length. The main cities of interest that most tourists will visit in the Valley after leaving Cusco, include: Pisaq, Urubamba, Chinchero, Ollantaytambo, and Machu Picchu. There are fairly large ancient ruins and sacred sites to be found in all of these locations, as well as many others dotted around. Some other notable ruins and sacred spots include Tipon, Maras and Moray. 

If you are in a rush - I still recommend at least 2 days in Cusco, and 2 in the Valley before seeing Machu Picchu. For those people with more time, you may want more time to relax and unwind in the valley, exploring more various sites, visiting spas and boutique hotels, and trying the varied and delicious cuisine. 

​Hibernation makes sense when its this cold (-10 to -30) and its barren (the plants die :( - for a 5 month period, with no food growing. 
Now, add in the late sun rises and early sun sleeps - all contributing to animals seeking shelter in caves or warm nests and sleeping for months - only to emerge in the spring. Hibernation

I’ve decided I am most definitely an animal - A bear in fact. All I want to do is eat and stay indoors and not emerge until spring :)
And a lot of us do ;) - gorging on high fat foods, hot chocolates, and running Netflix marathons so we don’t have to leave the comforts of our nests. Leaving only to work and or to stock up on groceries for maybe two weeks at a time. 

Lots offer advice to pick up skiing or skating or some other winter sport - but really then for us hibernating types our feet and hands would freeze, so no.....

So I’ll stay indoors, reminiscing of beach days gone by, and planning trips to new exotic locales, perhaps even figuring out a new place for a third home - so that instead of hibernating for half a year I can frolic in the sunshine :)